After the otherworldly charm and tranquility of the Simien Mountains, the maniacal city-base of Gonder held little interest for me, so I did a quickie tour of the prerequisite castles, before flying off for an even quicker look-see of the famous rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lalibela Within a couple of hours, I was totally smitten with the spectacular scenery, so I changed my onward flight and stayed for four nights instead of two. I roomed at